Cooking
Corn Bread By Sight
By Aaron Freeman
My mother cooks hot water corn bread incorrectly. Oh
sure she's been cooking it deliciously FOR sixty years but that's not
the point. Her methodology is imprecise thus incorrect and as her thoroughly
modern, college educated, son it is my duty to ameliorate her error.
My mother measures cooking ingredients by sight as did her mother and
her mother before and maybe back to exponentially great grandmother
of the Yoruba nation. It is a ridiculous way to prepare food. Getting
a recipe from my mother is like: "You take some corn meal, a little
salt." "But M'dere, how much corn meal?" "It depends
on how much you're making."
I am a science reporter. I eat quaint folk customs for lunch. I know
that empiricism and reproducibility are essential components of any
successful formula.
Furthermore, if African American culture, in real life, Southern, rural
culture is to survive; if its tradition are to be preserved then future
generations need to be able to cook its recipes. Those cooks of the
future will have no idea what to do with the instruction "Put in
enough salt to give the bread a little flavor but not too much."
They will shake their heads and munch astro-biscuits.
Despite the unassailable logic of my position my mother would not, claimed
she could not write down her recipe for hot-water cornbread. So I figured
it out myself.
Through careful remembrance of many years of watching her do it and
a process of systematic experimentation I defined the ingredient limits
of successful hot water cornbread. THEY are: one cup of corn meal, one
tablespoon of salt; one egg, half a teaspoon of baking powder and three
quarters of a cup of boiling hot water. Simplicity itself. I HAd single-handedly
dragged hot water cornbread into the twenty first century. For the first
time our genes had produced an individual, me, with the intellect and
organization to immortalize a crucial leaf on our family's culinary
tree.
I marveled at how many generations of Freemans had sat at their tables
saying, "You know Birtie, you ought to write that hot water corn
bread recipe down." To which Birtie would reply, "Now Jesse
you know we're just illiterate country nigroes. We'll have to wait for
some future generation of erudite technically proficient offspring to
immortalize our recipe."
I printed a copy of the recipe, at the highest quality resolution, laminated
it and gave it to my mother... signed. I posted a copy on the refrigerator
door. I emailed copies to my cousins.
The recipe was godsend. I owned hot water cornbread. Every piece I fried
up was perfect, just like my mother's, every time. When delighted guests
requested the recipe, I offhandedly replied, "I'll email it to
ya."
Then one day I'm making dinner, mustard greens in soy sauce, honey and
sherry, a perfect match for hot water corn bread. I was going to make
ONLY six pieces, enough for the immediate family. The measuring cup
was unusable because earlier in the day one of our daughters had micro
waved an egg in it. No biggie... had the microwave not been set to cook
for twenty minutes. By the time I noticed the smell the measuring cup
was coated with a layer of burned albumin with the density of Kevlar.
I picked up a saucepan and the box of corn meal. I poured some meal
into the pan, shook it to level the meal and thought, "This is
about a cup." I have no excuse for not measuring the salt and baking
powder I just didn't.
The cornbread was fine, as always.
Next meal of course I returned to real, cup, spoon measurement. But
about a week later the measuring cup was dirty when I was ready to cook,
no encrusted Kevlar, but cleaning it was a bit too much trouble so I...
measured by sight. Slowly, over the course of a few months I slid into
down-home measurement of down-home recipes. As long as I know the depth
of the cornbread in the sauce pan I can always visually estimate the
proper amount of salt and when that's known the amount of baking powder
becomes obvious then you just put in enough hot water to make the batter
you know, the right consistency, like the way it should be.
I still have the recipe somewhere on my hard drive... I think.
Oscar Wilde said all women become like their mothers, that is their
tragedy, no man does, that's theirs... Oscar Wilde would have understood
about the corn bread.
© 2002 Aaron Freeman